Grow Light Spectrum Explained Simply

Full spectrum, red and blue light, PAR, PPFD, DLI and Kelvin explained in plain English, with how much light herbs and salads really need indoors.

Shelves of terrariums and potted plants under grow lights against a whitewashed brick wall
By Rob Griffiths · 10 min read

Grow light marketing is full of jargon - full spectrum, Kelvin, red-to-blue ratios, PAR and PPFD - and most of it does not matter for growing a shelf of herbs. The one idea worth understanding is photosynthetically active radiation, the slice of light plants actually use. Get that right and the colour of the light is a detail.

What does grow light spectrum mean?

Spectrum simply means the mix of light colours, or wavelengths, a light produces. Sunlight contains the full range, from blue through green to red. Plants respond most strongly to red and blue wavelengths, so early grow lights used mostly red and blue diodes, which is why they glow pink or purple. The spectrum of a light tells you which of those wavelengths it delivers and in what balance.

Wavelengths are measured in nanometres (nm). As a rough map: blue light sits at about 400 to 500 nm, green at 500 to 600 nm, red at 600 to 700 nm, and far-red just beyond that, at about 700 to 750 nm, at the edge of what our eyes can see. A grow light's spectrum chart is simply a graph of how much light it puts out at each of those points.

Why are grow lights pink or purple?

Because they emit mostly red and blue light, the two bands plants use most efficiently, and red plus blue looks pink or purple to our eyes. It is not a gimmick, but it is not the only option. Modern full-spectrum white LEDs deliver plenty of red and blue within a natural-looking white light, which is easier to live with in a kitchen or living room and grows plants just as well.

Do plants use green light?

Yes, more than the old idea that leaves 'reflect green' suggests. Chlorophyll absorbs red and blue light most strongly in the top layer of a leaf, but green light passes deeper into the leaf and down into the lower leaves of a crop, where it still drives photosynthesis. Leaves look green because they reflect some of it, not because they ignore it.

Green light also matters for a practical reason: our eyes are most sensitive to it. That is why a light rich in green looks very bright to us, and why a pink red-and-blue light looks dim even when it is delivering plenty of usable light to the plants. It is also why white light is kinder to the grower. Under a full-spectrum white LED you can see whether leaves are yellowing, spot pests early and judge when herbs are ready to pick, which is hard under a purple glow.

What is PAR and why does it matter?

PAR, or photosynthetically active radiation, is the range of light wavelengths plants can use for growth, roughly the visible spectrum. When you compare grow lights, the useful question is how much PAR reaches your plants, not what colour the light is. A light that looks bright to you can still be weak in PAR, which is why an efficient purpose-built grow light beats a normal room bulb even when both look bright. Brightness to the human eye is measured in lux or lumens, which are weighted towards green, so a lux reading or a phone light-meter app is only a rough guide when you compare two lights with different colours.

What are PPFD and DLI?

These are the two numbers that turn PAR into something you can plan with.

PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) is how much usable light lands on a patch of leaves each second, measured in micromoles per square metre per second (µmol/m²/s). It falls quickly as you raise a light, and it is usually highest in the centre of the footprint and weaker at the edges, which is why good manufacturers publish a PPFD map at a stated hanging height.

DLI (daily light integral) is the total usable light a plant receives over a whole day, in moles per square metre per day. It is the number that best predicts how well a crop grows, because it combines how strong the light is with how long it is on. If the light is constant, the sum is simple:

PPFD × hours on × 0.0036 = DLI

So a light giving 200 µmol/m²/s at leaf height for 14 hours a day delivers about 10 mol/m²/day. Leave it on for 16 hours and that rises to about 11.5. Doubling the hours does roughly what doubling the brightness does, which is useful when a small light cannot be made any stronger.

How much light do herbs and salads need?

Less than fruiting crops, which is the good news for anyone growing indoors. As a rough guide:

Microgreens and pea shoots

Get by on the least light, because they are harvested within a couple of weeks. A modest light close above the tray is usually enough, and the main sign of too little is pale, leggy stems. Our microgreens guide covers the setup.

Leafy salads and soft herbs

Lettuce, basil, parsley, coriander and similar crops are commonly grown at a DLI of roughly 12 to 17 mol/m²/day in commercial settings. At 14 to 16 hours a day, that means roughly 200 to 300 µmol/m²/s at leaf height. Home crops will still grow below that, just more slowly and more loosely.

Chillies, tomatoes and other fruiting crops

Need considerably more light to flower and set fruit well. A small herb panel rarely gets there, so treat indoor fruiting crops as a project needing a larger light, not a windowsill extra.

In a UK winter the daylight on even a bright windowsill can fall well short of these figures, and much of it arrives from one side, which is why indoor herbs stretch towards the glass. A grow light does not need to replace the sun entirely; topping up a windowsill for the dark months is often enough. Our guide to what to grow indoors in winter picks out the crops that cope best.

What does Kelvin mean on a grow light?

Kelvin (K) is the colour temperature of a white light: how warm or cool it looks to us. Around 2,700 to 3,000 K looks warm and yellowish, like a traditional bulb; 4,000 K looks neutral; 5,000 to 6,500 K looks cool and slightly blue, like daylight.

A warmer white contains proportionally more red and a cooler white more blue, but the Kelvin figure says nothing about how much usable light the lamp puts out. Both warm and cool full-spectrum LEDs grow herbs and salads well. In practice, choose the colour you are happy to live with in a kitchen or living room, then compare lights on PPF and PPFD rather than on Kelvin.

What do blue, red and far-red light each do?

Each band nudges how a plant grows as well as how fast. None of this needs fine-tuning for herbs, but it explains what you see on the shelf.

Blue (about 400 to 500 nm)

Keeps plants compact, with shorter stems and thicker, often darker leaves. Too little blue is one reason plants grown under weak or very warm light turn leggy.

Red (about 600 to 700 nm)

Drives photosynthesis very efficiently, and red diodes are among the most energy-efficient LEDs, which is why nearly every grow light is weighted towards red.

Far-red (about 700 to 750 nm)

Sits just outside the classic PAR range. Plants read it as a sign that they are shaded by neighbours, so it encourages stretching and larger leaves. Some researchers now argue it contributes to photosynthesis when mixed with other light, but for a home herb shelf it is a nice-to-have, not a requirement.

Ultraviolet

Some lights add a UV channel. Herbs and salads do not need it indoors, and UV is something to keep away from your eyes, so treat it as optional at best.

Do you need full spectrum for herbs?

Full spectrum is the sensible default, but herbs are not fussy. A full-spectrum white LED gives balanced light, looks natural indoors, and grows leafy herbs and salads without you having to think about ratios. Unless you are chasing maximum yields from fruiting crops, you do not need to tune the spectrum - you just need enough usable light over the growing area, delivered efficiently.

How do you read a grow light spec sheet?

Once spectrum is out of the way, five figures tell you most of what you need to know. An independent comparison of greenhouse light fixtures by Utah State University researchers measured efficiency in exactly these terms, as micromoles of usable light per joule of electricity, which is the fairest way to compare lights of different sizes.

  1. Real power draw (watts)

    What the light actually pulls from the wall. This sets your running cost; ignore 'equivalent' or diode-count wattage.

  2. PPF (µmol/s)

    The total usable light the fixture puts out each second. A bigger number means more light to share across your plants.

  3. Efficacy (µmol/J)

    PPF divided by watts: how much usable light you get for each unit of electricity. Higher is better, and it is the quickest way to spot an inefficient light.

  4. PPFD map

    Usable light at leaf level across the footprint at a stated hanging height. Use it to check the light reaches the 200 to 300 µmol/m²/s range over the area you plan to grow, not just in the centre.

  5. Coverage area

    The footprint the maker says the light can serve. Compare it with the PPFD map; a generous coverage claim with weak edges means smaller usable space.

How long should a grow light be on each day?

For herbs and salads, 12 to 16 hours a day on a simple plug-in timer is the usual range, and most self-contained indoor gardens default to around 16. Longer days let a modest light deliver a respectable DLI, but plants still benefit from a dark period each night, so avoid leaving a light on around the clock.

Running costs are small for herb-sized lights. Our breakdown of hydroponic garden running costs works through the sum at current UK unit rates, and the same watts-times-hours method applies to any standalone grow light.

What light spectrum is best for growing herbs?
A full spectrum, which includes the red and blue light plants use most plus the rest of the visible range. For herbs and salads a standard full-spectrum white LED is more than enough.
Why do grow lights look purple?
Because they emit mostly red and blue light, the wavelengths plants use most efficiently, and that combination appears pink or purple. Full-spectrum white lights deliver the same wavelengths in a natural-looking white.
What does PAR mean on a grow light?
PAR stands for photosynthetically active radiation, the band of light plants use for growth. How much PAR reaches your plants matters more than how bright or what colour the light looks.
Is a full-spectrum light necessary?
Not strictly, but it is the easiest choice. Full-spectrum white LEDs grow herbs and salads well and look natural indoors, so there is rarely a reason to use a red-and-blue-only light at home.
What PPFD do herbs need?
For leafy herbs and salads, roughly 200 to 300 µmol/m²/s at leaf height over 14 to 16 hours a day gives a daily light integral in the range commercial growers commonly use. Herbs will still grow with less, just more slowly.
Does Kelvin matter on a grow light?
Not for growth. Kelvin describes how warm or cool a white light looks to you. Warm and cool full-spectrum LEDs both grow herbs well, so choose the look you prefer and compare lights on PPF and PPFD instead.
Can an ordinary LED bulb grow herbs?
A little, if it is very close to the plants, but a household bulb spreads its light around a room rather than onto the leaves and rarely quotes any PAR figures. A purpose-built grow light puts far more usable light where the plants are.